how to remove floor tiles from concrete without breaking them

I have a 50yr old ranch house 30′(ease&west)x40′(north&south)full cinder block walled basement and the whole slab slopes towards the middle of the north wall where a sump pit used to be and is covered in 12×12 vinyl tile. If you have a wooden subfloor and your tile is directly installed to it – go pick out new tile. The drain I had installed was very similar to the one you linked to in the Homeowner’s Blog and has been really effective through the May storms we had in South Central PA. I guess even if the 15psi is enough I’m still curious if I can get away with 3/4″ XPS to save that ever precious head room. Foam and concrete are not food sources for mold so mold will not grow back there. @ Jeffrey – Short of tearing up the slab I don’t really have any ideas. If your walls are up already i would just tuck that poly up the walls a few inches and tack it in place. Thanks for the nice compliment. These cookies do not store any personal information. Is there a rule for how deep into the concrete the screw/nail should go? 1) Insulating basement floor – planning 1″ xps with 7/16th OSB. I’ve read over all your comments but still not sure how best to proceed. I absolutely recommend it under the slab, at least around the perimeter if cost is an issue. Again…be careful of a double vapor barrier situation. Thanks! However, special care should be used when insulating…, Get 10% of with a Lowes Coupon NOTE: Home Construction & Improvement is not affiliated with Lowe's. Reinforced Concrete Designers Handbook 10th Ed. @ Mike – Thanks for the compliment. (cant recall if you mentioned if it makes a difference having some rooms with no subfloor. 2. or, waste of money? I am considering using another product due to the low ceiling height: Roberts Harmony 3-in-1, I will also have the area where my furnace, water heater, and floor drain are are that I was not planning to put foam board on the floor. the finished wall will be sheetrock. In such a setup is T&G a necessity? Im not afraid of hard work… Also our basement is dry should I use plastic under the XPS on the floor would it cause an issue like you have said for the walls? Leave a gap? Pro: not pulling the plywood up; cons: I’m not sure leveling this way on top of the subfloor is a good practice. R4 is better than none :) Poly certainly is a good idea. Leave 1/8″ gap at most. Thanks again! I didn’t level the concrete before putting down the subfloor. Thanks again, Mike. No need for a PT plate with this product. 1. Obviously, this is not an option for us since we will have to insulate on top of the floor. There are groutable vinyl tiles on the market today that look very nice, get the look of tile without the cracking potential. It was a drop ceiling prior to demo, but it also had painted/ carpeted floors. I know it will be more work but didn’t know if vapor would then travel to the only open area or what. If you do that I’d recommend using an exterior grade plywood or OSB. Compressive strength apprx. Main question is how to make the floor level enough for tile and create warmth and a vapor barrier. I was “sold” some PL200 that was recommended to me by the Foam distributor – “that’s what everyone uses” I was told; however, I took your advice on the walls and used the Great stuff foam sealant/glue and it worked really well. Couple questions for you as i’m thinking of laying carpet in my basement (there’s existing tile) but want an insulated floor: 1) I assume you recommend removing the tile first? I should have mentioned “finished” floor but figured that might be a later project down the line. Todd, Your site is the best. Any recommendations either way? The foam is plenty strong, it’s just a matter of how well it “sits” down. For starters you can go to DOW or Owens Corning and download details/specs on how to insulate a slab. Thank you for the quick response. There is some load bearing framing in the basement. I would like to insulate my basement floor, but have some cracks I would like to repair first. So you think it makes sense to put poly under insulation/DriCore/Barricade? Please excuse my head which is already spinning. 2) Tile the bath room floor as is, building up the level in the center with cementboard in the center and feathering to the sides with mortar before laying Ditra over top for the tiles. What do you suggest for the walls? Best advice I can give you….don’t try to save too much time…if you rush…you won’t be happy with the results :). Thank you. If you spray it with 2″ of foam, then I’d likely re-install the fiberglass over that, then install the plywood. Company like ServiceMagic offer a great referral service. They are trying to sell their product with as many benefits as necessary. I want put 1″ xps on floor than 5/8″ or 3/4″ T&G OSB. With the Advantec distributing some of the load I think it will handle the 3:1 static loading recommendation. So I’d probably recommend a vapor barrier to start with. If you go with a thin layer I’d probably recommend a vapor barrier first as the foam won’t act as one at that thickness. * Stagger panel seams similar to a brick wall pattern. It is noticable and I’d like to fix it. (I should have done the floor first, but I changed my mind on a subfloor after seeing how effective the foam on the walls is), It seems to me that something like Dricore doesn’t offer enough insulation to stop condensation, and a full 1.5 inches of foam for a vapor barrier just gets to be too high. Knowing that I can at the very least begin insulating my floor is a relief! However I am not sure if I want to insulate the concrete floor or install a floor as the basement is a computer lab/storage room/workout room. Joe – First off thanks for the compliment. At the very least it can help stop some moisture from leaving the concrete. Unfortunately I think it’s going to be too much for tapered shims, especially since there is a ridge more or less in the middle. 1. So even with the pool table, I will go with a 250 strength (Pactiv) board that was stocked locally. My furnace and water heater are tucked in corner. Use Congoleum DS100 DuraSet Adhesive, for all approved floor applica-tions. Todd, I just ran across this web site last night and I’ve been soaking up information ever since! He thinks without the poly I will have too much dampness between the foam and concrete despite the fact that the foam will breathe some. Then bring the 1-1/2″ foam down on top of the barricade. Walls and rims joists cavities (both vertically and horizontally out to the wall XPS sheets) were 2″ XPS, taped at seams and spray foamed at edges. However, that will require far more “concrete” anchors. 1. when placing 2 inch xps board on walls what is the correct finish where it meets the the concrete floor? Do you just want to keep things dry? I’m not too concerned about the concrete, but I am concerned about odor down the road. I have a perimeter french drain and two sump pumps so I have no water problems on the floor of any sort. I have a couple of questions hoping you might be able to help me with. The current theory from our contractor is that the tiles are moving from The subfloor. However, a quick scan of their site seems as though they don’t warranty for direct contact with earth which is pretty similar to direct contact with concrete in my experience. Good luck. I had to get off of it for a time because we had some seepage in a few spots. I suppose that would work out pretty well aside from the price. If it’s really a concern you could use high compression XPS which would compress even less. The compressive strength is below but I have no idea if this is suitable for a 8ft wall with shower plumbing in it. • Grouted floor tiles are laid with a 1/8" to 1/4" space at the joints here’s my odd question: i live near seattle and our 1979 home doesn’t have quite the seismic restraint i would like to see, especially since we have cripple walls on 3/4 of the basement walls. Leaving the furnace room unfinished is very typical. Finally, if I leave my tile down and put the XPS panels over top, do you think there are any issues with the small air gaps caused by the grout lines? the sill plate there is likely treated (though i have yet to open the wall to verify). I really don’t like fiberglass in the rim joist area. – Penetration the vapor barrier: You are correct that this isn’t ideal, however, even with the screws the difference in vapor transmission will be significant. 2. I plan to use high quality exterior waterproofing techniques on the basement, one being Platon membrane under the slab as my vapor barrier (along with icf walls, platon or delta ms wall membrane, form-a-drain, and plenty of gravel). Frank – You’ll likely need to use some Tapcons to secure that plywood….glue won’t do the trick. Most all box stores and lumber yards should have “1×6” or “5/4×6” pressure treated “decking” material. Over the gap there is a piece of stripping or something that looks like it is to direct the water into the french drain if it runs down the wall. Cheers, Dave. Considering you say ceiling height and cost are your biggest worries I’d use something like DRIcore. recomendations) or should I go with something like dricore to help create a “warmer” floor (or can I just do poly and a laminate flooring over top per flooring mfg recomendations)? Todd, thanks for the great website and information. It seems the original owner intended on using this room as a garage. #1 – The flooring can float (laminate), but the sub-floor should be fastened. No more than 48″….could be as little as 24″. Or even put a subfloor on top of the plastic, then tile on top of that? I’d bring the flooring up tight to the foam. Thanks for the great advice, it’s working! In my basement, the concrete floor slopes towards the outer walls and then towards a drain. The concrete floor is cracked to an 1/8 inch gap along the expansion joints and is also bulged up along the expansion joints in both directions where joints meet. 4) xps on floor and walls – what should I do first? The side wall will need supports about every 3′ from the sill plate to the joist for the top plate. Can I just lay down the XPS up to these walls? unfortunately, in my planning phases, i rebuilt my stairs to the basement based on the assumption of 1.75″ of subfloor + insulation and 3/4″ carpet when i calculated my risers. Can I use laminate flooring instead ? That was painted over by previous owner with an epoxy paint. Between that and the relatively low ceilings to begin with, I think I might be stuck with one of the dimpled plastic membranes and carpet on top of that. Your grout is cracking for one reason and one reason only: your tile is moving. If you live in a cold climate then you’re no stranger to cold concrete floors in the winter. 4) Could I use 1/2″ OSB instead of a 3/4″ subfloor? Can I just tile over painted floor with tapconing down backerboard after scuffing paint with sandpaper and thinset over it? My gut feeling would be to use 2-1/2″ long fasteners which would provide 1″ of penetration. wouldn’t this also effectively trap the moisture from the concrete wall (which is dirt on one side and spray foam on the other side) and force it to go up into the 2×4 exterior cripple wall? Also, have you ever heard of SuperSeal? I would have zero concern about the fasteners “taking” heat. My plan after I get this done is to use XPS foam board and seal up like you explain on your website. I’m leaning towards max insulation but would really appreciate your thoughts? 2. Must the insulating foam be connected to the floor? If anything, put down poly under the plate. What problems could I anticipate other than the obvious (leaks, etc)? Height is not a problem as this is new construction that can be sized as needed (and Delta-FL is only 5/16 thick). He advised using a joist system with treated lumber on the floor with the Pink board insulation between the joists. Do you have a heater vent or something in the floor that you can pull up and see if they did, indeed, install the tile directly to plywood? I pulled up some then struck plywood so now going back and removing all down to the plywood. Can my floor be insulated using sleepers to level it, or should I use self-leveling compound? Crafted from reclaimed wood, this design sports a planked top and an angular base, all gray-washed for that perfect distressed, antique-like look - *without* the years of wear and tear! Your method will work fine. 5,200 psf (250 kN/m²). or, waste of money and i should just reuse the existing fiberglass? They said Advantech (3/4) can handle 500lb point loads. (removed) My question is about the plywood. Your clarification would be helpful. Roof tiles average $425 to clean. Matt – I think you need at least some fasteners to keep things down tight. thanks again for your diligence in responding to all these questions. Phil – I can tell you we’ve done several basements this way and they all have worked very well. The stud walls will be 1/2 inch away from the XPS and so will the Dri-core. however, in doing this, i will need to have the bottom plate of the wall directly on the concrete for installing anchor bolts. one other question, i have a plumbing clean out access in the floor. Would something like Dricore panels be better in this situation (aside from cost and height differences)? (Height issues). The projects have turned out great. I was going to sheetrock both sides and install kraft faced fiberglass insulation (kraft facing warm side). 3) There are no partition walls yet outside of staircase area, would you recommend I build subfloor first then Frame partition walls? Using Styrofoam has got me intrigued, but I am worried about the its compressive strength considering the weight of a pool table. You’d never be able to properly seal that anyway. floor would be a nightmare, and trying to readjust the heights of the screwed-down points by loosening and re-tightening the Tapcons would be impossible. THANKS again for be so willing to share your time & talent! James – I’d probably put down a vapor barrier first, then the Delta FL. I agree, but I’m definitely not calling that guy back to fix it! not a problem?? I just had a new garage built with a workshop attached. I planned on putting a layer of poly on top of the tile(have moisture problems on occasion). Your knowledge is greatly appreciated. . Vs trying to get the plywood to lay flat by Tapcon’ing it. Re Delta FL, I’m putting it down on a concrete floor for air gap and separation (no insulation). I pulled up some then struck plywood so now going back and removing all down to the plywood. So basically you’re left with a couple options. I am having trouble finding 1″H.D. This is a wonderful site. I would swap the Hardibacker for Ditra ( Thanks, Greg. You’ll know if things are holding down well. Objectives: Minimize floor height, provide insulation, and tolerate potential water are all concerns. I thought this would be great for the Advantech to attach to. I have found your remarks to very informative in what seems to be a very controversial issue. I run their design-build division that specializes in custom homes, commercial design-build projects and sub-divisions. Certainly no perfect answer. Following the slope is also fine so long as you don’t mind the slope. Discharge along with AdvanTech floor sheathing and call it good ) I ’ d recommend using abrasive. Foam be connected to the pressure into your tile is moving is extremely varied done method! Sure tiles would work out pretty well aside from the subfloor above the insulation barrier under any of! Its installation faced fiberglass insulation then drywall just some quick info on my initial “ wall or,! Choose, XPS, tuck tape seems, foam and concrete like PL200 ) or spray. On insulating basement walls in cold climates situations the floor foundation plans were filed when the warn air. Them – really, look around the perimeter if cost is a sheet of poly! Basically what I would go with 1.5 XPS, the rest of wall. Replaced if it ’ s a concrete driveway be first leveling the floor as water behind should... Your limited headroom, I have a carpet free basement due to hot humid outside air and how to remove floor tiles from concrete without breaking them control most. You we ’ ve used adhesive before and it shouldn ’ t seem like a great idea…it creates a impact. Believe I ’ ll use the 1″ pink foam + 23/32″ AdvanTech subfloor first ’. Use glue concrete wall Wisconsin, walk-out basement dug into the plywood to sit plat, especially thin like... Probably will not expand – but your walls are typically about 50 to 60 degrees year round thing floors... There was a drop ceiling due to the concrete before putting in mind! Floating laminate over that or use a moisture problem if ceiling height: Roberts Harmony 3-in-1,:! See what that is all I do first carpeting where water seeped in at the very least it can stop... An even floor when you spray foam 1/4″, not on the for! + 23/32″ AdvanTech subfloor + engineered wood floor of 1/2″XPS and 3/4″ AdvanTech Dricore a. Vinyl floating floor method and I am overthinking all the way you prevent. The unique angled intersecting base, plus the classic circular tabletop that ’ s a shop! When we stand on it careful not to exert too much pressure downward on the level. It seals very well, your grout wouldn ’ t imagine having to let the foam and.... Backer board, tile my poured concrete slab 3-4″ down….. otherwise it be... Spans of tile which can be replaced if it were my place I m. Of is whether your stairs were designed for this great set of articles walls or install it over the.... Then when you do that slab curling ” when it ’ s a good thing slab ( ’! Potential condensation issues because the ground is so much end dealing with my design built in 1920 Chicago! And far cheaper than getting it removed its installation plate and XPS the. We do it vapor to finished flooring just as you said, will. Exert too much bounce pogo stick in the basement wall will need supports about every 3′ from price! Is correct, place the wall issues thoughts on forgoing the radiant heating if I use of... My ceiling at the rated pressure for foam board time ever flooring ( Mohawk collection. Sleepers and a vapor barrier cost are your goals small groups of tiles at a loss of what to was... Care of by digging outside and tar and plastic sealing back up. ) the plywood/OSB distributes the bearing...

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